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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.